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hing is done before the parts are put together. Especially is this true if stain and filler are used.
A very pretty finish and one easily put on even after the parts are put together is obtained as follows: Take a barrel and stuff up the cracks or paste paper over them so as to make it as near airtight as possible. In some out-of-the-way place put a dish with about 2 oz. of strong ammonia. Set the tabouret over this dish and quickly invert the barrel over the tabouret. Allow the fumes to act on the wood for at least 15 hours. Remove the barrel and allow the fumes to escape. Polish with several coats of wax such as is used upon floors. Directions for waxing will be found on the cans that contain the wax.. This produces the rich nut-brown finish so popular in Arts and Crafts furniture and is known as fumed oak.
HOW TO MAKE A MORRIS CHAIR
The stock necessary to make a morris chair of craftsman design as shown in the engraving can be purchased mill-planed and sandpapered on four sides as given in the following list:
4 posts 1-3/4 by 3 by 26 in. 2 front and back rails 7/8 by 5-1/2 by 24 in. 2 side rails 7/8 by 5-1/2 by 28 in. 2 arm pieces 7/8 by 5-1/2 by 37 in. 7 slats 3/8 by 2 by 24 in. 2 cleats 1 by 1 by 22-1/2 in. 2 back stiles 1 by 2-1/2 by 24-1/2 in. 2 back rails 1 by 2 by 17 in. 3 back slats 3/8 by 1-1/2 by 19 in. 1 back support 3/4 by 3/4 by 24 in. 2 support rests 1 by 1-1/2 by 8-1/2 in. 2 dowels 1/2 in. diameter, 6 in. long.
First make and put together the sides of the chair. While the glue is setting on these parts make and assemble the back. The front and back rails may next be made and placed and the cleats and bottom slats fastened. With the adjustment of the back the chair is ready for the finish.
The posts are to be tenoned on the upper ends. These tenons are to project 3/16 in. above the arm and should be slightly beveled. The lower ends of the posts, likewise, all other projecting ends, should be beveled to avoid their splintering. All sharp corners, as on